D.C.’s New Korean Restaurant Onggi Opens in Dupont Circle

Detrimental ions are a part of the constructive attract of Onggi, a flowing Korean royal-court expertise the place banquettes are lined with heated Himalayan salt rock.

Located a stone’s throw from Dupont Circle, the spa-like house beholds an intentional eating journey. At Onggi, named for Korean earthenware vessels utilized in crafting and storing kimchi, the traditional artwork of fermentation is folded into every technique-savvy meal.

Whereas many Korean kitchens are identified to blanket diners’ tables with banchan (small sides designed for sharing), Onggi leans in on Hanjeongsik, a conventional Korean multi-course meal, “like a rigorously choreographed dance,” in line with proprietor and culinary director Tanya Kim and govt chef Geewon Kim (not associated).

Onggi’s anticipated spring opening on Tuesday, April 1 marks immediate Dupont competitors for Anju, which is lengthy thought-about probably the greatest sit-down Korean eating places on the town. Onggi slides into the previous residence of Duck Duck Goose (2100 P Road NW).

To start out, Onggi visitors start with a ceremonial tea cleanse service, adopted by a squash porridge with a dusting of sweetened flower powder — a customary preparation that’s meant to stimulate the urge for food. For his or her pas de deux with the restaurant, prospects choose from three choices: an $85 six-course or $115 nine-course “Land & Sea” choice, or a vegan nine-course “Earth” choice for $105.

Every tasting menu strikes by way of its distinctive development, although all include a housemade, brightly acidic white pear kimchi that serves to chop by way of and freshen heavier dishes. The “Land & Sea” selection consists of dishes like abalone and japchae; the vegan choice ropes in mushrooms in gochujang and fried tofu.

The companions open Onggi after itinerant pathways to the restaurant business. As a former U.S. authorities employee, Tanya Kim turned fascinated with Korean meals by way of her job, so she visited Seoul to immerse herself in coursework on the historical past of royal palace delicacies (specializing in the celebrated Joseon Dynasty) that influences the meals at Onggi. In the meantime, Geewon Kim labored building in the course of the day, and spent evenings honing his culinary chops.

Scott Suchman/Onggi

Scott Suchman/Onggi

Collectively, the Kims goal to supply meals during which “magnificence, historical strategies, regional variety, and communal spirit converge.” Every of the dishes, no matter menu, represents a area, a customized, or a season, they are saying.

One standout is the Chiljeolpan, a “seven delicacies” pancake. Beloved in Korea, the dish arranges seven colourful components round wafer-thin crepes used to eat. Initially a courtroom dish from the Joseon Dynasty, it symbolizes stability and concord, permitting diners to wrap their very own delicate, flavorful combos.

Scott Suchman/Onggi

Scott Suchman/Onggi

In addition they level to the galbi, conventional marinated and grilled quick ribs. The wealthy, sweet-savory-umami dish originated in the identical Joseon Dynasty, and is broadly consumed right this moment. At dinner, the galbi comes with banchan.

Beverage director Colin Sugalski runs the drink program, channeling town of Seoul’s vibrant nightlife he’s skilled firsthand. He tosses in makgeolli, a extremely conventional, “usually free-flowing” milky-colored glowing rice wine, into cocktails just like the College Days, which pairs superbly with citrus and lemongrass. The cheekily named “Not One other Lychee Martini” options soju, lychee, ginger, yogurt, and a floral contact from chrysanthemum. An eclectic set of half-dozen beers, in addition to a wine listing that leans closely on prosecco and Riesling hangs properly with spicy, wealthy dishes.

Scott Suchman/Onggi

Outdoors of the set dinner menus, there’s a brief listing of a la carte dishes — kim bap, rooster wings, mandu (dumplings) — in addition to a lunch menu, all of that are served with black bean tea, banchan, and salad.

The serene, spa-like setup is bathed in a collection of eggshell, beige, and cream tones. Balancing the whites, plush suede spherical chairs pair properly with heat picket tables, together with these blush-pink energizing Himalayan salt rock. Dishes arrive on handcrafted ceramic wares from eight completely different Korean artisans who work with indigenous clay.

This intentionality at Onggi “stands as a residing tribute to Korea’s culinary legacy,” say the Kims.

Simone Rathle/Onggi