Die-hard followers of Harvey’s Butcher Store have already mourned its anticipated closure, as the store marketed climbing reductions to filter the expertly lower stock native meat lovers have relied on since 1931. Proprietor and skilled butcher George Lesznar is lastly retiring after over 4 a long time of working on the store. As an alternative of closing down the small meat counter in Union Market, Lesznar is promoting the stall and identify rights to Brad Feickert, the chef and proprietor of Soko Butcher and Koma Cafe in Takoma Park.
Harvey’s will turn out to be Harvey’s by Soko, with high-quality meats that will probably be just like the attractive pork chops, cuts of lambs, and complete chickens Harvey’s has turn out to be well-known for, plus the signature meaty sandwiches, dry-aged steaks, and ready-to-eat objects that Soko Butcher has been promoting in Takoma Park for over three years.
Harvey’s isn’t any stranger to reinvention, initially opening at O Avenue Market earlier than the market burned down in 1968; reopening on the D.C. Farmer’s Market in 1971; and as soon as once more in 2012 within the extra high-end Union Market rebuilt by Edens properties. Initially a commodity meat market that centered on factory-farmed and affordably priced merchandise, Lesznar (the son-in-law of the unique proprietor) relaunched Harvey’s as a locally-sourced and extra sustainable butcher when he opened the stall beneath the identical identify in 2012.
He detailed to Bon Appétit in 2015 how he began working with farms in Maryland and Pennsylvania to search out pasture-raised animals and supply meat that “tastes prefer it’s speculated to style.” The cheaper commodity meats have been nonetheless out there for neighbors who had relied on the decrease costs (and knew to ask for it), however about 80 p.c of gross sales have been of pasture-raised meats.
Feickert hopes to hold on this more moderen custom, with Soko opening in 2022 with the mission of serving to meat-eaters devour animals extra responsibly. It additionally was a supply of lesser-known cuts like beef tongue, venison, squab, and goose. Soko Butcher Store can be an apparent group favourite, successful greatest butcher store for Washington Metropolis Paper’s “Greatest Of D.C.” contest three years in a row (with Harvey’s successful second place in 2024).
The official swap over to Harvey’s by Soko will happen on April 9.
