a. kitchen + bar, 1010 New Hampshire Ave NW, Washington, DC (West Finish) — Reviewed November 4, 2024
With all of the high-profile restaurant openings these previous few months, you might have missed the quiet opening of a.kitchen + bar within the AKA Resort – Washington Circle. Or possibly you probably did hear about it, however you thought it was some sort of Abbott & Costello routine:
“Hey, did you hear {that a}.kitchen and bar are opening within the AKA Resort?”
“That’s nice! What’s it referred to as?”
“a.kitchen and bar.”
“Yeah, I do know it’s a kitchen and bar. I’m askin’ the title.”
“Precisely.”
No matter obtained in the best way, it’s time to get to know a.kitchen + bar. Proper now the meals and repair are a number of the greatest on the town.
That is really a.kitchen + bar’s second location. The primary opened in Philadelphia in 2014, however the DC location isn’t any mere outpost. We obtained our personal A-Workforce, beginning with Chef de Delicacies George Madosky, who served as Government Chef on the much-loved Fork in Philly earlier than shifting to DC together with his spouse to open a.kitchen. Madosky and Government Chef Eli Collins end up shareable, French-influenced plates which are recent, well-conceived, and fantastically executed. We had a celebration of six and tried possibly 2/3 of the menu and there wasn’t a clunker within the bunch. Have a look.
The Don’t Miss
Crispy Oyster Mushrooms w sunchoke miso aioli
This dish offers monochromatic meals a superb title. Crisp and astonishingly grease-free, swipe a ‘shroom by the stunning sunchoke miso aioli and benefit from the bar snack of your goals.
Inexperienced Salad w sorghum, recent herbs, black lime dressing
Not simply one other inexperienced salad. This one is ready aside by the freshness of the lettuces and herbs, the expert dressing of the greens, and the popcorn — sure, popcorn — to offer somewhat crunch.
Smoked Duck w wedge fries, watercress, duck fats bearnaise
Such a scrumptious plate. The duck is cold-smoked earlier than being seared off to an ideal medium-rare. The fries are salty and crisp. And the duck fats bearnaise is the decadent complement to each. I by no means did work out what to do with the watercress however I’m guessing a dunk within the duck fats bearnaise wouldn’t harm.
The Actually Good
Roasted Cauliflower w almond bagna cauda, puntarelle, parmagiano reggiano
Cauliflower feels considerably performed out, however there’s no been-there, done-that with this plate. I imply, have a look at it. It’s a kaleidoscope of cauliflower backed by assertive background notes from the almond bagna cauda, puntarelle (Italian chicory), and parmesan shavings.
Rooster Liver Tart w truffle honey glaze, apple butter mustard
So wealthy and so good. This dish is a must-split until you’re somebody who usually places away a sleeve of braunschweiger throughout a Commanders recreation. A couple of crostini on the plate could be a welcome reminder to myself it’s not likely meant to be eaten like pie.
Chickpea Panisse w grilled carrots, pickled peppers, purple kuri squash tahina
Heat chickpea fritters — a south-of-France specialty — on one other vibrant, well-balanced plate.
Little-Neck Clams w spaghetti nero, tomato confit, aji dulce, spicy crab broth
Sorry for the picture of a half-eaten dish, however needed you to get a way of it. The clams and pasta are the celebrities, however you’ll undoubtedly need to maintain spooning up the spicy crab broth even after they’re gone.
Rockfish w braised butter beans, hakurei turnips
There’s quite a lot of rockfish within the DC space — it’s Maryland’s state fish — however not many native spots end up a rockfish filet as recent, crisp-skinned, and moist as this one. Below-appreciated and under-used butter beans add creamy heft with out undermining the healthful really feel of the dish.
Cardamom Panna Cotta
Cardamom desserts have lengthy since expanded past their Indian and Swedish roots to grow to be a favourite of pastry cooks in all places. It’s a taste that’s exhausting to explain — heat, natural, peppery, a tad minty — nevertheless it’s undoubtedly extra advanced and delicate than spices like cinnamon and cloves. And it really works rather well in easy preparations like this panna cotta.
Paris Brest
I’m not an enormous fan of Paris Brest — choux pastry (too dry), praline cream and slivered almonds — however this model is without doubt one of the greatest I’ve had, so for those who’re a fan give it a attempt to let me know.
The Good
Bluefin Tuna w badger flame beets, harissa, taggiasca olives
One other extraordinarily fairly plate with top quality substances that went down very simply. Nothing to complain about right here, simply undecided that the dish was greater than the sum of the elements.
Potato Rosti w crab rillettes, brussels sprouts, radish salad
Good substances considerably foiled by off-kilter proportions. The potato rosti have been too thick for the crab salad topping, so I reduce mine in half horizontally to carry the ratio of potato-to-crab extra in stability, after which flipped the potato-only halves onto one another to make some crunchy potato latkes.
Gougères w Comtè cheese and black pepper
The gougères I’ve identified have at all times been cheese puffs, not cheese-filled, so this will likely have been a matter of expectations. It took me a second to regulate to the gush of cheese after I bit into one. I’d deliberate to nibble by at the least two of them once they have been set down however shortly realized one could be tremendous. So nonetheless a tasty starter, simply heavier than you might assume.
Bavette Steak w peanut romesco and roasted bunching onions
A very good steak, well-cooked. However as the most costly factor on the menu ($48), and given the standard of the opposite dishes, a bit underwhelming by comparability.
The Misses
N/A. Nothing I wouldn’t fortunately eat once more.
The room is minimalist-chic with a comparatively low noise stage that doesn’t intrude with dialog. There’s additionally an excellent out of doors patio area that can serve meals in hotter climate and proper now is a good post-dinner spot to hang around by the fireplace pit.
Lastly, I do need to say one thing concerning the workers, which was exemplary. They’re pleasant, educated, and clearly dedicated to the a.kitchen mission. However what I like most about them is, for need of a greater phrase, their authenticity. There aren’t any phony welcome spiels such as you get in some eating places, no rote checking in after the primary chew to ask you the way it was. They act like actual folks. It’s most likely no accident that our terrific server Fahad — shout-out to Diana and the remainder of the workforce as nicely — labored for Kevin Tien on the earlier incarnation of Moon Rabbit. The eating places take an identical strategy — I’d put Rose’s Luxurious and Queen’s English on this class as nicely — that breaks down limitations between the workers and clients somewhat than conventional service strategies that preserve them. You may inform I’m a fan. Authenticity makes me really feel seen and cared for. In contrast, I do know somebody informed you to ask me how my first chew was, so the interruption is much extra annoying than comforting. And that’s the alternative of hospitality.
